A four-star burger

Next time you're in the mood for a great burger, get your butt down to Wine Down on 28th, just a block and a half north of Burnside Street.

After one too many Thursday nights consuming cheap sushi (not that there's anything wrong with that), we broke from our routine and dropped in on our friend, Stuart Herold, proprietor and self-described "wannabe sommelier."

Even before I could scan the menu, Stu recommended a house favorite:

Laurelhurst Burger. A half-pound of Strawberry Mountain beef with smoked cheddar, caramelized onions, andouille aioli on a pub bun. Served with a side salad or, for $2 more, some tasty sweet potato fries.

From the first bite, I could see why. It's just three basic flavors -- the cheddar, the carmelized onions, the wonderfully seasoned beef -- having a party on a warm, soft bun. No tomatoes, lettuce, pickles, mayo or mustard needed.

Wine Down is one of those places that I like to think defines Portland: outstanding food, friendly service and a casual atmosphere. Even if you don't snag a booth or one of the comfy couches near the fireplace in the corner, the dining room has a warm, cozy feel to it -- almost as if you were eating in someone's house.

I know we don't get there often enough, but after last night I'm hereby pledging to become a more frequent visitor, with friends or family in tow. Even if it means less sushi.